Focus on Gold

The Golden Age

With the trend towards white metals dominating the market over the last few years, it seemed as though yellow gold had taken a back seat in popularity. While some of us contend that yellow gold never waned in fame, there’s no question that this radiant, warm precious metal is enjoying a Golden Age.

>> Deborah A. Yonick, Senior Market Trends Correspondent

If you’re not planning to increase your representation of gold jewelry for the Fall-Winter season, particularly the upcoming holidays, you might want to rethink your strategy. Many fashion-savvy jewelry and department stores report a positive momentum with gold jewelry sales, reported to be one of their best performing categories for this group last holiday season. Jewelers at recent international trade fairs preached their belief that this year promises to see a splurge of demand market-wide for yellow gold.

This movement is being fueled by the symbiotic relationship that jewelry and fashion possess, with each inspiring the other simultaneously. The use of gold in fashion has come on strong this year. Textile trends for spring-summer collections are toward sumptuous fabrics that gleam with dusted sheen or sheer qualities. Luminous looks reign supreme with metallics, especially in gold tones, as the most important fashion news. Designers have decided that the Midas touch deserves a full body makeover from stilettos to sunglasses, and everything that shimmers in between is undoubtedly gold.

The gold momentum that began this spring, with such catwalk pets as a long gold evening gown by Moschino, Bill Blass’ outfit drenched in gold sequins, Anna Sui’s gold embellished frock, or Vivienne Tam’s golden jacket, continues through F/W 2007-08. Also, be on the lookout for slick gold jumpsuits like the one Miss Sixty debuted in its fall show, or metallic jacquard shift dresses mimicking Max Azria’s gold style. The use of gold crosses over all apparel categories from evening wear to sport-luxe.

In addition to being a fashion favorite, gold has seduced a growing celebrity following. Cate Blanchett has been spotted at one premiere after another in golden outfits and accessories. Her stylist, Jessica Paster—who has an all-star roster including Penelope Cruz, Deborah Messing, Sandra Bullock, Hillary Swank, and Diane Lane—says she wants her clients in gold because it’s formal, youthful, and fresh. Paster continues to hail gold jewelry, too, as a red carpet must-have because it brings out the warmth and glow in a woman’s skin. “Not only does it sparkle and react to the cameras like pure sunshine, it also adds a golden shimmer to the overall look,” she says.

Gold statements
Key trends in gold include long and layered; varied link looks; contrasting textures and organic forms; color in gold, enamel, and gemstone use; geometric motifs and airy, open designs; big and bold; sculptural and narrative; iconic and symbolic; and fluid with movement. Among the most important jewelry types this year are hoops, bangles, pendant necklaces, and large cocktail rings.

1. The layered look has grown organically out of the desire to create personal style statements. Longer necklaces lead the trend, along with bangles and band rings.
2. Chain links have replaced bohemian beads with casual gypsy flair. Evocative gold chain has gathered momentum with different link types and textures. Circles are evolving into ovals, squares, cubes, and more organic forms.
3. Sculptural and narrative, conversation jewels resonate with cultural references, like spiral scrollwork, coins, fleur-de-lis, or ancient Roman and Greek motifs.
   
4. Contrasting textures and tones of gold are powerful focal points in jewelry, especially hammered looks and laser-etched surfaces.
5. Tri-color gold is making a comeback, in very contemporary styles. We are also seeing stylish gold pieces in all colors of the rainbow—rose, red, pink, green, peach, and even black.
6. Color is undoubtedly big in gold designs with more designers integrating enamel and gemstones to styles that traditionally have been gold intense. Black onyx will be especially important paired with yellow gold this season.
7. The hoopla over hoops continues, with all sizes in style. Varied hoop design treatments add excitement to this classic—such as gem or bead dangles from within or extending down; intricate cutouts; or open weave.
8. Fan-shaped earrings are becoming a favorite, as is mismatched earrings that coordinate. Interior designs are not only found in hoops and fans, but also inside standard pendant forms like circles, medallions, and squares.
9. Movement is a key trend from drop to dangle in earrings and pendants, and especially bracelets. Gold charms, in particular, are hotter than hot, particularly in playful motifs like stiletto shoes, lipsticks and handbags; iconic symbols like hearts, crosses, and talismans; and personal designs of initials and family crests.