So Charming
From their origins as ancient spiritual protectors to today’s fashion statements, charms have come a long way. Today, these little jewelry pieces are not only adorning the traditional bracelet, but can also be found on necklaces, rings, anklets, earrings, and even watches and mobile phones.

By Cynthia Unninayar

One of the most noticeable trends over the last few years has been the renaissance of the charm bracelet. As jewelry items, they are versatile, sentimental, and can tell a story. But just where did the practice of wearing these delightful little objects come from?

Charms throughout history
Charms probably date back to Neolithic times when men would carry a special stone or piece of wood to ward off enemies. The first recorded examples of charm bracelets and necklaces are seen during the period of the Egyptian pharaohs. Small amulets served as protective shields and status symbols in both life and beyond, helping guide the wearer to the proper level in the afterlife. Around 500 BC, the Assyrians and Persians created charms out of gemstones carved with small figures of animals and gods, which were considered to have special powers.

During the Roman Empire, Christians would discreetly carry fish charms under their garments in order to gain entry into forbidden places of worship. Jewish scholars of the same period wore golden amulets filled with small pieces of parchment inscribed with passages of Jewish law. In the Middle Ages, kings and warriors used charms and amulets with incantations to protect them in battle. Men of this period also wore them on belts as a sign of status, family and profession.

With the emergence of the Renaissance era, superstitions gradually disappeared and the more educated, wealthy classes in Europe stopped wearing charms. The other people, however, continued their age-old traditions, and the charm maintained its special role until the late 19th Century. It then began to evolve from its practical function as a spiritual protector to a more decorative use as a fashionable piece of jewelry.

Much of this transformation can be credited to Queen Victoria, who adored elegant and elaborate jewelry, including charm bracelets. During the 1890s and early 1900s, lockets, family crests, and glass beads were placed on bracelets and necklaces. Small lockets with family portraits or locks of hair became fashion statements in themselves.

Birth of modern charms
The charm bracelet as we usually think of it got its biggest boost after World War II. American soldiers purchased souvenir trinkets representing local monuments and places of interest in Europe, Asia and the Pacific. Jewelers in the United States were quick to realize the potential of this new trend, and began making charms symbolizing nearly everything under the sun. By the early 1950s, charm bracelets were used to celebrate major rites of passage – birthdays, graduations, weddings – and were among the most popular jewelry items for women and girls, selling in various types of materials and price ranges.

However, with the rise in popularity of gold chains in the 1970s, charm bracelets began to fade from fashion’s view. Yet, 25 years later, during the collectible craze of the 1990s, vintage charms became hot selling items in antique stores and estate sales.

Charming renaissance
At the turn of the millennium, the fashion industry took another look at these dangling little objects. Whether created by global luxury brands or independent craftspeople, charms were again becoming fashionable.

Today, they take on many forms, from the traditional hanging charms to a relatively new Italian interpretation, where special links feature names or images. These charms are soldered to flat links attached to a stretch bracelet. Like their more conventional counterparts, they can be easily removed or added according to the wearer’s inclination or mood.

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